Hazelnut Toffee Bites

Mae Copenhagen’s Toffee is famous in many circles. Rich and crunch with a rich deep nut flavor. There are many holiday confections, but very few stands up to Mae’s toffee.


The making of toffee in my family is a long held tradition and great care and pride is taken in passing on the tradition. If anyone would like to learn, I’m happy to share the recipe/ techniques and tips; in fact I’m sure any of my aunts, uncles, cousins or siblings would be happy to share their secrets in making delicious hazelnut toffee. Or, if you are lucky you can place an order for a delicious batch.  With that said, I’ve been inspired to branch out.

This year I decided to try a different version of hazelnut toffee. This recipe is for individually coated hazelnuts in toffee, coated in chocolate and rolled in grated nuts.

Hazelnut Toffee Bites

1lb whole raw hazelnuts
1lb butter
3 tbsp. water
2 cups sugar
4oz. bitter sweet chocolate

Preheat oven to 350. Toast the hazelnuts until fragrant. As a general rule, once you smell the nuts they are just about ready to burn. Now is not the time to go start the laundry, you’ll burn them.

Take one ¼ cup of the toasted whole hazelnuts and grate them in a food processor. Set aside for coating the toffee later.

In a heavy pan over medium heat add the butter, water and sugar. Stir the mixture continuously until it takes on the color of finished toffee. When the toffee takes on a dark rich color and whiffs of smoke start to lift from the toffee add the whole hazelnuts.

Pour the mixture through a course strainer onto a silpat or sheet pan. Use a wooden spoon to push the toffee through the mesh. After a major portion of the toffee has passed through the strainer , empty the toffee coated nuts onto another silpat. Working quickly, pull the nuts into individual pieces. I recommend pulling on a pair of latex gloves and going to work.

In a large glass bowl melt the chocolate for coating the toffee coated hazelnuts. I recommend breaking the chocolate into pieces and microwaving the chocolate for 25 seconds. Stir the chocolate and microwave again for 25 seconds if it is not fully melted. Don’t over microwave the chocolate or it will seize up and become grainy.

Working in small batches coat the toffee coated hazelnuts in chocolate and then roll them in the grated toasted hazelnuts. Let the toffee nuts cool before packaging.

Wild Rice Salad with Portbellos and Dried Fruit

This wild rice salad is chock full of little gems. There are toasted spices, nuts and dried fruit. Each bite brings an earthy burst of flavor.  I first saw this recipe on Sarah's Secrets with portland chef Cory Schriber.  


8 cups water
2 cups wild rice
2 tsp. salt, plus more to taste
1 bay leaf
12 sprigs of thyme
4 tsp. canola oil
2 pounds chanterelle or Portobello mushrooms, wiped clean and chopped

Vinaigrette
½ cup olive oil
6 tbsp. balsamic vinegar
4 large shallots, thinly sliced
2 tsp. fennel seeds, toasted and cracked
2 tsp. cumin seeds, toasted and cracked
2 tsp. thyme chopped
2 tsp. fresh cracked pepper
1 cup mixed dried fruits, such as cherries, cranberries, raisins, chopped figs, or chopped apricots
1 cup chopped walnuts or pecans, toasted
1 pound stemmed arugula
8 ounces fresh white goat cheese, crumbled (about 1 cup)

toasted  and cracked spices

Directions

To prepare the rice: Wash the rice under cold water for 2 minutes. Bring 8 cups of water to a boil and add the salt, bay leaf, and thyme. Add the washed rice to the boiling water and simmer for 40 minutes, or until tender. Drain the rice and remove the bay leaf and thyme; let cool. (This can be done 1 day ahead of time and refrigerated.) You should have 7 cups cooked rice. OR…swing by Trader Joes and pick up two packs of their pre-cooked wild rice. It’s much easier…

In a large skillet, heat the canola oil over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 to 6 minutes, or until lightly browned. Remove from heat, drain well, and set aside.

To make the vinaigrette: In a small bowl whisk together the olive oil, vinegar, shallots, fennel, cumin, thyme, and pepper and season with salt. Add the dried fruits.

In a salad bowl, combine the cooled wild rice, cooked mushrooms, and walnuts. Toss with the vinaigrette and fruits.

To serve, portion the salad onto a large platter, top with the greens, and sprinkle with the goat cheese.

Pie Means I Love You

My great grandmother, my grandmother and my mother were all great pie makers. Each generation has taken great care in passing on the skills and secretes of making great pies. One of my favorite memories is of my mother holding my hand in hers as she demonstrated exactly how much water to add while making pie dough.

Lemon meringue pie was one the pies I loved to make with my mother. This recipe comes from my grandmother Mae Copenhagen.

Lemon Meringue Pie

1 ½ cup sugar
1/3 cup cornstarch
1 ½ cup water
4 eggs, separated
3 tbsp. butter
½ cup lemon juice
2 tbsp. lemon zest
¼ tsp. cream of tartar
½ cup sugar

Make and bake a one-crust pie shell. Mix sugar and cornstarch in a saucepan. Stir in water gradually. Cook over moderate heat, stirring constantly until mixture thickens slightly. Beat a little of the hot mixture into the egg yolks. Then, beat back into the pan and boil one minute more. Remove from heat and stir until smooth. Add the butter, lemon juice and rind. Pour into a baked pie shell. To make meringue, beat the egg whites until frothy. Add cream of tartar and beat. Add the sugar a little at a time while beating until stiff and glossy. Pile meringue onto filling, being careful to seal the edges. Bake at 400. For approximately 5 minutes. Watch it…

Seared Duck Breast with Dried Cherry Port Sauce

Every once in a while inspiration can strike like lightning. I’ve found some of my best experiences or creative moments have resulted from indulging an inspiration or seizing a moment. This is dish came from that place and/or wild abandon.


This weekend we headed out for our annual trip to Yamhill County for wine tasting and purchasing of this year’s best wines. We headed straight to Carleton Oregon. First stop was Ken Wright, then Lemelson and we finished off our day at Bergstom. In all we samples 20 pinot noirs ranging from this year’s neauve wines to 2006 pinot’s. The challenge during the day was remembering the specific flavor spectrums of each wine and comparing this years tastings with the memories from years past. It was a difficult job, but I dedicated myself to the task.

So, back to the inspiration. After a day of tasting beautiful Pinot Noirs Peter and I got talking about dinner. The day had been filled with the pungent ripe smells of wineries and the tannin of decaying leaves, and quickly we both zeroed in on duck. The dinner was set…

Pan Seared Duck with Dried Cherry Port Sauce

Searves 6

3 duck breast
Salt and pepper

Dried Cherry Port Sauce

½ cup rendered duck fat
1 shallot, diced
1 clove garlic, diced
½ cup dried cherries
½ cup tawny port
1 tsp. black pepper corns
½ cup red wine
½ cup chicken stock
1.5 oz. chicken demi-glace
2 tbsp. butter

Preheat oven to 350. In a small bowl cover the dried cherries with tawny port and peppercorns.

Dry the duck breast and score the fat with a sharp knife. On the stove sear the duck breast fat side down in an oven-safe pan over medium heat. Using medium heat will allow the fat to render and create a crispy crust. Once the duck has achieved a dark golden brown, about 6 minutes, turn the duck breast and transfer the pan into the oven. Bake the duck breast until medium-rare, about 6 minutes. When the duck breast reads 120 degrees on a thermometer remove from the oven. Let the duck rest under aluminum foil while you finish the sauce.

Pour off the duck fat leaving about ½ cup in the pan. Save any fat you pour off. It makes incredible hash browns. Sauté the shallot and garlic. Add the port soaked cherries, pepper corns and the remaining port. Stir in the chicken stock, chicken demi-glace and red wine. After the sauce has reduced whisk in the butter. The sauce should look thick and glossy.

Slice the duck, and pour the sauce over top.

Roasted Bananas with Bourbon Caramel Sauce

This recipe is a great one to have in your repertoire for an impromptu dinner party; it packs a flavorful punch and you’re likely to have most of the ingredients on hand. There is something very elegant about its simplicity. When bananas are roasted their sugars caramelize making a natural caramel and the flesh develops a lovely cakey texture. The deep rich favorers are the perfect ending to a fall’s feast. Serves 6


Roasted Whole Bananas

6 bananas, pealed
1 Tbsp. vegetable oil
½ tsp. cinnamon
¼ cup brown sugar
1 tsp. vanilla

Bourbon Caramel Sauce

½ cup brown sugar
¼ cup dark corn syrup
¼ cup bourbon
¼ cup heavy cream
2 tbsp. butter

Preheat oven to 350. Grease an oven proof skillet with the vegetable oil and arrange the bananas in the pan with a little room between them. Sprinkle the bananas with cinnamon, brown sugar and vanilla. Roast the bananas in the oven for 15 minutes or until you see nice caramelization.

Transfer the roasted bananas to a platter using a spatula. Don’t worry if they break apart, you can arrange them anyway you would like. In the pan there should be some lovely congealed banana drippings that have caramelized with the brown sugar. These drippings are the beginnings of your caramel sauce. Now over medium heat on the stove top add the brown sugar, corn syrup and bourbon to pan. Stir and let the mixture come to a boil. Once the mixture has reduced and the sugar has caramelized into a dark amber whisk in the heavy cream and butter. Pour the caramel sauce over the bananas and top with whipped cream or ice cream. Enjoy…

Chicken Paella, Andalusian Style

Paella is powerful dish. The kind of dish who’s deep flavors and traditions have the ability to transport you to another world or time. Each bite connects you with the long history of humanity, like the smoky voice of passionate flamenco singer. It can seduce you into a wild love affair with its exotic spices and complexities. Ok, enough with the dramatic hyperbole. It’s yummy and deeply satisfying.

Chicken Paella

7 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp slivered blanched almonds
4 cloves garlic, minced
2 tbsp minced parsley
¼ teaspoon crumbled thread saffron
¼ cup dry sherry or white wine
1 chicken, cut into pieces
5 cups chicken broth
1 medium onion, diced
1 green bell pepper, diced
1 bay leaf
¼ lb smoked sausage, sliced into coins
28 oz can whole stewed tomatoes
1 ½ Cup sliced mushrooms
2 ½ cup Arborio rice

Serves 6-8

In a small skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil and sauté the almonds and garlic until golden. Transfer to a food processor, add the parsley and saffron, and process to a paste. Stir in the sherry.

Cut the chicken into 2 inch pieces. Season with salt and pepper

Pour the broth into a sauce pan to keep warm over the lowest heat.

Preheat the oven to 400°

Heat the remaining 6 tablespoons oil in a paella pan measuring 18 inches wide. Sauté the chicken over high heat for 5 minutes browning the chicken. Remove to a platter. Reduce the heat and add the onion, green pepper, bay leaf and sausage, and sauté until the onion and pepper are slightly softened. Add the tomatoes, mushrooms, and sauté 5 minutes more

Stir in the rice, coating well with the man mixture. Pour in the hot broth and bring to a boil. Add the almond mixture, taste for salt and continue to boil, stirring and rotating the pan occasionally. Add the chicken pieces and any juices from the platter.

Cook uncovered, until the rice is almost al dente, then place in the oven for 15-20 minutes. Let sit for 5 minutes until the rice is cooked to taste. If you like peas in your paella add them when the paella comes out of the oven. They will come to heat and maintain their bright green color.

This recipe comes from the classic cookbook: Paella! By Penelope Casas. I recommend this book to any cooks library.

A Tale Two Pâtés

Chicken liver pâté can be a lonely item on a buffet. Even I, as an adventurous eater would often pass over the pâté for safer conquests of mini quiches and cheese straws, but a few years ago emboldened with a glass of pinot I jumped head first into the world of pâtés and I’ve never looked back.


Chicken Liver Mousse

1lb fresh chicken livers
1 Cup cold unsalted butter
2 small shallots, chopped
4 tbsp brandy
1tsp salt
¼ tsp pepper

Pick over the livers, removing the stringy bits. In a large saucepan, melt 1tbsp butter over medium-high heat, add chopped shallots, and sauté about 2 minutes, stirring a few times. Add livers and cook just until they lighten on the outside, a scant minute per side. Pour brandy over livers and tilt pan so the brandy pools in one corner. Ignite brandy, allowing flames to swirl over the pan’s edge. Flambé livers, shaking the pan for about a minute, then immediately transfer livers and brandy into a food processor. (livers will still be undercooked; the hot liquid will finish cooking them.) Add salt, pepper and process until smooth. Press the mixture through a mesh strainer into a bowl. Cover and chill overnight.

In a separate bowl, beat remaining cold butter with an electric mixer on high speed until smooth. Beat in a quarter of the liver mousse at time, scraping the bowl frequently. Transfer mousse to ½ cup ramekins and chill, covered, until ready to serve. Makes about 2 cups. This recipe originally came from Robert Reynolds and was published in Portland Monthly: November 2008.

Porcini and Pecan Pâté


1 Cup pecans

½ Cup dried porcini mushrooms

1 Cup boiling water

½ lb Portobello mushrooms, stemmed

2 tbsp tamari

2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

½ tbsp. nutritional yeast

½ fresh lemon, juiced

1 tsp chopped rosemary

1 tsp light miso

2 dry-packed sun-dried tomato halves

Salt


Put the pecans in a bowl and cover with cold water. Let stand 1 hour.

Meanwhile, in a small heatproof bowl, cover the porcini with the boiling water and let stand until softened, about 15 minutes. Rub the porcini to remove grit; transfer them to a small bowl. Reserve the soaking liquid.

Cut the Portobello caps in half and, with a sharp paring knife, trim off the dark gills on the underside of each one. Slice the caps into ¼-inch-thick pieces.

In a bowl, whisk together the tamari, olive oil, nutritional yeast, lemon juice, rosemary and miso. Add the sliced portobellos and toss to coat thoroughly. Let stand for 15 minutes, tossing occasionally.

In a small saucepan, combine the soaked porcini and sun-dried tomatoes. Slowly pour in the porcini soaking liquid, stopping before you reach the grit at the boil, cover and simmer over low heat until the tomatoes are tender, about 4 minutes.

Drain the pecans and transfer them to a food processor. With a slotted spoon, transfer the porcini marinated portobelos, and tomatoes to the processor; puree to a coarse paste, adding about 14cup of the porcini cooking liquid. Add a little more of the porcini liquid if the mixture is too thick. Season with salt.

Chill overnight.

The Perfect Pear

In my opinion cocktails fall into a three categories; booze, magical combinations and life imitating art. Here is what I mean. A good example of a booze cocktail is a Sazerac were the primary flavor of the cocktail is the whiskey. In the magical combination category I think of a lavender gin gimlet, were the lavender and lime bring out unique flavors in the gin. The third category brings together ingredients in order to duplicate something in nature and sometimes hides the flavor of the alcohol. A good example of this type of cocktail is a lemon drop.

The Perfect Pear cocktail falls deeply into the “life imitating art” category. Sipping this cocktail is like closing your eyes and biting into a cold juicy Bartlet pear with the juice filling your mouth and dripping down your chin. Well, hopefully not dripping down your chin, but you know what I mean.

The Perfect Pear

1.5 oz pear brandy

1oz triple sec

.5 oz lemon juice

2 oz pear nectar

Shake.

Side note: I had the opportunity to go to the Clear Creek Distillery to purchase the pear brandy. While I was there I got to taste their new Doulas Fir eau de vie. I was looking forward to it because it reminded me of the Douglas Fir Branch Water this artist used to bring into the Heathman. After talking with the taster, I learned this eau de vie is in fact based on the branch water Dennis l Cunningham makes and they even had some of his art hanging on the wall in the tasting room. Small world…